Watch World: Episode 5 — Women in Watchmaking & The Rise of Ladies' Luxury Watches

Women in Watchmaking & The Rise of Ladies' Luxury Watches

Welcome back to Watch World — Aevitas UK's series on the art, history, and obsession of fine watchmaking. Episode 4 celebrated the greatest movements ever made. This episode turns to a chapter of watchmaking history that is too rarely told — the extraordinary contribution of women to the craft, and the finest ladies' timepieces available today.

Women Who Shaped Watchmaking History

The history of watchmaking is often told as a story of men — Breguet, Patek, Rolex, Lange. But women have been central to the craft since its earliest days, both as the subjects of some of the most important commissions in horological history and as makers, innovators, and collectors in their own right.

The First Wristwatch Was Made for a Woman

As we noted in Episode 1, the first wristwatch in history was created by Patek Philippe for Countess Koscowicz of Hungary in 1868. For the following five decades, wristwatches were considered exclusively feminine accessories — men wore pocket watches. It was only the practical demands of the First World War that brought wristwatches to men's wrists. Women, in other words, were the original wristwatch wearers.

Marie Curie and the Radium Dial Girls

The early 20th century saw women playing a critical — and tragically costly — role in watch production. The "Radium Girls" were young women employed by the United States Radium Corporation to paint watch dials with radium-based luminous paint, which made dials readable in the dark. Instructed to point their brushes with their lips, they were exposed to lethal doses of radiation. Their subsequent legal battle against their employer in the 1920s became one of the first cases in which a corporation was held liable for the health of its workers — a landmark in occupational safety law.

Suzanne Rohr — Master Engraver at Patek Philippe

Suzanne Rohr joined Patek Philippe in 1966 and became one of the most celebrated engravers in the history of the manufacture. Her work on the Grand Complications — minute repeaters, perpetual calendars, and pocket watches — is considered among the finest decorative engraving ever produced in the watch industry. She was awarded the title of Meilleur Ouvrier de France (Best Craftsperson of France) in 1986, one of the highest honours in French craft.

Carole Forestier-Kasapi — Head of Complications at Cartier

Carole Forestier-Kasapi is one of the most technically accomplished watchmakers working today. As Head of Complications at Cartier, she has developed some of the most innovative movements in the industry — including the revolutionary ID One concept movement, which uses no lubricants whatsoever, and the Cartier Astrotourbillon, in which the tourbillon cage rotates around the dial rather than in a fixed position. She holds multiple patents and is widely regarded as one of the finest movement designers of her generation.

The Finest Ladies' Luxury Watches Today

The ladies' watch market has undergone a profound transformation over the past decade. Where once "ladies' watches" meant small, jewellery-focused pieces with minimal mechanical ambition, today's finest women's timepieces combine exceptional movements with extraordinary design — and are increasingly chosen by collectors of all genders.

Rolex Lady-Datejust

The Rolex Lady-Datejust is the definitive ladies' luxury watch — combining the reliability and prestige of the Rolex name with a refined 28mm case that wears elegantly on any wrist. Available in an extraordinary range of dial colours, materials, and bracelet options, the Lady-Datejust is both a practical daily watch and a genuine collector's piece. Its Calibre 2236 movement, developed specifically for the Lady-Datejust, features a Syloxi silicon hairspring for exceptional accuracy and resistance to magnetic fields.

Patek Philippe Twenty-4

The Patek Philippe Twenty-4 was introduced in 1999 as a ladies' watch designed for the modern woman — elegant enough for formal occasions, understated enough for daily wear. The current Twenty-4 Automatic, launched in 2019, houses an in-house automatic movement in a 36mm case — making it one of the few Patek Philippe pieces designed specifically for women that features a self-winding calibre. It is a watch that takes its wearer seriously.

Cartier Ballon Bleu

The Cartier Ballon Bleu is one of the most recognisable watch designs of the 21st century. Its distinctive rounded case, floating crown protected by a curved lug, and clean dial have made it a favourite across genders since its introduction in 2007. The ladies' versions — available in 33mm and 36mm — are available in steel, rose gold, and set with diamonds, with a range of dial colours that make each piece feel genuinely individual.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous collection represents the manufacture's most ambitious ladies' watchmaking. The Rendez-Vous Moon features a moon phase complication of exceptional accuracy — deviating by just one day every 3,887 years — housed in an elegant 36mm case with a guilloché dial. It is a watch that combines genuine horological ambition with a design sensibility that is unmistakably feminine without being reductive.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ladies

The Royal Oak's iconic octagonal bezel and integrated bracelet translate beautifully to the ladies' range. The 33mm Royal Oak in steel or rose gold has become one of the most sought-after ladies' watches in the market — combining the Royal Oak's collector credibility with a case size that suits a wider range of wrists. Set versions, with diamond-set bezels and dials, represent some of the most spectacular jewellery watches available from any manufacture.

Ladies Triple Watch Roll

Storing Ladies' Watches Properly

Ladies' watches — particularly those with diamond-set cases, delicate bracelets, and precious metal components — deserve exceptional storage. A quality watch box or roll protects crystals, bezels, and bracelets from scratches and dust, preserving both condition and value.

For automatic ladies' watches like the Rolex Lady-Datejust and Patek Twenty-4 Automatic, a watch winder keeps the movement running between wears. Our single watch winder range includes compact, elegant options that suit a dressing table or jewellery cabinet perfectly. The Single Carbon Fibre Watch Winder is a particularly popular choice — quiet, reliable, and beautifully finished.

For travel, our ladies' watch roll range offers exceptional protection in a beautifully presented format. The Ladies Triple Watch Roll in Tiffany Blue Saffiano Leather with soft pink lining is designed specifically for the female collector — as are the Pink Saffiano, Blue Saffiano, and Claret Red Saffiano variants.

You May Also Like

Single Watch Winders — elegant winding for one or two automatic watches.
All Watch Boxes — luxury storage for every collection.
TPD Settings Database — correct winder settings for every brand including Rolex and Patek Philippe.
Watch World Episode 4 — the greatest watch movements ever made.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best luxury watch for a woman?
The Rolex Lady-Datejust is the most versatile and universally admired ladies' luxury watch — combining reliability, prestige, and an extraordinary range of personalisation options. For those seeking something more distinctive, the Cartier Ballon Bleu and Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous offer exceptional design and movement quality.

Do ladies' watches hold their value?
The finest ladies' watches from Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet hold their value exceptionally well — particularly in steel, in original unpolished condition, and with original box and papers. Diamond-set versions can be more volatile, as diamond prices fluctuate independently of the watch market.

Do ladies' automatic watches need a watch winder?
Yes — any automatic watch, regardless of size or gender designation, benefits from a watch winder when not being worn regularly. The Rolex Lady-Datejust Calibre 2236 and the Patek Philippe Twenty-4 Automatic both require approximately 650–800 TPD. Check our TPD database for exact specifications.

What watch roll is best for ladies' watches?
Our Ladies Triple Watch Roll in Tiffany Blue is our most popular choice for female collectors — designed specifically for smaller case sizes with a soft pink lining that protects delicate bezels and bracelets.

When is Episode 6 of Watch World?
Episode 6 arrives on 27 July — exploring the future of watchmaking: new materials, smart complications, and the innovations that will define the next generation of luxury timepieces. Follow the Aevitas blog to stay updated.

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