Welcome to Watch World Series 2 β Aevitas UK's continuing celebration of the art, history, and obsession of fine watchmaking. If you missed Series 1, start with Episode 1. This episode turns to one of the most underrated aspects of watch collecting β the strap or bracelet that connects your watch to your wrist.
Why the Strap Matters More Than You Think
A watch strap is not merely a functional component. It is the element that determines how a watch feels on the wrist, how it looks against a shirt cuff, how it ages over years of wear, and β in many cases β how much the watch is worth on the secondary market. The right strap can transform a watch entirely; the wrong one can undermine even the finest timepiece.
For serious collectors, strap changing is a fundamental skill. A single watch worn on five different straps becomes, in effect, five different watches β each suited to a different occasion, outfit, or mood. Understanding the options available, and when to use each, is one of the marks of a genuinely knowledgeable collector.
Integrated Bracelets: The Gold Standard
The integrated bracelet β a bracelet designed as an inseparable part of the watch case β is the most prestigious and technically demanding strap option in watchmaking. The Patek Philippe Nautilus, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, and Rolex Oyster bracelet are the three most celebrated examples, and in each case the bracelet is as important to the watch's identity as the dial or case.
GΓ©rald Genta's original design brief for both the Nautilus and the Royal Oak specified that the bracelet must flow seamlessly from the case β no visible join, no gap, no interruption. Achieving this requires extraordinary precision in both design and manufacture. The Nautilus bracelet, with its horizontal link pattern echoing the dial's horizontal lines, and the Royal Oak's tapering integrated bracelet with its distinctive H-link construction, are engineering achievements as significant as the movements they carry.
Integrated bracelets are not interchangeable β they are made specifically for their watch and cannot be replaced with a generic alternative. This exclusivity is part of their appeal, but it also means that condition matters enormously. A stretched or damaged integrated bracelet significantly reduces a watch's value; an original, unworn bracelet in excellent condition adds substantially to it.
The Oyster Bracelet: Rolex's Masterpiece
The Rolex Oyster bracelet, introduced in 1947, is the most recognisable watch bracelet in the world. Its three-link construction β a flat centre link flanked by two rounded outer links β has remained essentially unchanged for nearly eight decades, a testament to the perfection of the original design.
Modern Oyster bracelets feature Rolex's Easylink comfort extension system, which allows the wearer to adjust the bracelet length by up to 5mm without tools β useful for temperature changes that cause the wrist to expand and contract. The Glidelock clasp on the Submariner and Sea-Dweller allows micro-adjustment over a range of 20mm, making it possible to wear the watch comfortably over a wetsuit.
The Jubilee bracelet β Rolex's five-link alternative, originally designed for the Datejust β offers a more elegant, dressy alternative to the Oyster. The choice between Oyster and Jubilee is one of the most personal decisions a Rolex buyer makes, and both have passionate advocates.
Leather Straps: Elegance and Patina
A fine leather strap is the most elegant strap option for a dress watch β and one of the most personal. Leather develops a patina over time, moulding to the wearer's wrist and acquiring a character that no new strap can replicate. A well-worn alligator strap on a Patek Philippe dress watch is, to many collectors, more beautiful than a new one.
The hierarchy of leather straps runs roughly as follows: calf leather at the entry level, then ostrich, then alligator (caiman), then genuine alligator (porosus), then hornback alligator at the pinnacle. The finest straps are made by specialist ateliers β Jean Rousseau in Paris, Camille Fournet, and HermΓ¨s are among the most celebrated β and can cost several hundred pounds for a single strap.
Leather straps are not suitable for water exposure β they will deteriorate rapidly if regularly wet. For watches worn in or near water, a rubber or NATO strap is the appropriate choice.
NATO Straps: The Collector's Favourite
The NATO strap β a single piece of nylon webbing that passes under the watch case and fastens with a buckle β originated as British military issue in 1973. Its official designation was G10, and it was issued to all British Army personnel who requested a watch strap from the Ministry of Defence stores. The name "NATO" came from the NATO stock number printed on the original specification.
The NATO strap has become one of the most popular strap options among serious collectors for several reasons. It is extremely durable, water-resistant, and comfortable. It holds the watch securely even if one spring bar fails β the strap passes under the case, so the watch cannot fall from the wrist. And it is available in an extraordinary range of colours and patterns, making it the most versatile strap option for personalisation.
The Omega Speedmaster on a NATO strap has become an iconic combination β evoking the watch's military and space heritage. The Rolex Submariner on a NATO is equally celebrated, particularly in the grey-black-grey "Submariner" colourway that references the original military issue.
Rubber Straps: Performance and Modernity
The rubber strap has evolved from a purely functional option to a genuine luxury choice. Richard Mille's rubber straps β made from high-grade FKM rubber with a distinctive texture β are as carefully designed as the watches they carry. Rolex's Oysterflex bracelet, introduced in 2015, combines a metal blade with a rubber exterior to create a strap that offers the comfort of rubber with the security and appearance of a bracelet.
For sports watches β dive watches, chronographs, and tool watches β a rubber strap is often the most appropriate choice. It is water-resistant, easy to clean, and comfortable in warm weather. The finest rubber straps are made from vulcanised rubber or FKM (fluoroelastomer), which is more resistant to UV, heat, and chemicals than standard rubber.
Milanese Mesh: Understated Elegance
The Milanese mesh bracelet β a finely woven metal mesh that adjusts continuously via a magnetic or folding clasp β originated in Milan in the 19th century and has been used in watchmaking for over a century. Its appeal lies in its combination of elegance and practicality: it is breathable, comfortable, and adjustable to any wrist size without tools.
The Milanese mesh has enjoyed a significant revival in recent years, appearing on watches from Rolex (the Oyster Perpetual Milgauss), Tudor (the Black Bay 58), and numerous independent brands. It suits both dress and casual watches and works particularly well in gold or rose gold for a warm, vintage aesthetic.
Travelling with Multiple Straps
Serious strap collectors face a practical challenge: how to travel with multiple watches and multiple straps without damage. A quality watch roll is the ideal solution β protecting watches in transit while keeping straps organised and accessible.
Our Black Genuine Leather Triple Watch Roll holds three watches securely in individual padded compartments, with enough space to accommodate watches on bracelets or straps of any width. For collectors who travel with more watches, our Quad Watch Roll holds four. Browse the complete watch roll range for all sizes and colours.
For watches stored at home, a quality watch box protects both the watch and the strap from dust and UV exposure β both of which degrade leather and rubber over time. Our 12 Watch Box in Carbon Fibre is particularly popular with strap collectors, as its generous compartments accommodate watches on any bracelet or strap configuration.
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β Watch Rolls β premium travel protection for watches on any strap.
β All Watch Boxes β luxury home storage for every collection.
β Single Watch Winders β keep your automatic wound between wears.
β Watch World Episode 6 β the future of watchmaking.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best watch strap material?
There is no single best material β the right choice depends on the watch, the occasion, and personal preference. Integrated bracelets suit sports and luxury watches; leather suits dress watches; NATO and rubber suit casual and sports wear. Many collectors own multiple straps for the same watch and change them to suit the occasion.
Can I change the strap on any watch?
Most watches with standard lug widths (18mm, 20mm, 22mm) can accept any strap with the correct width. Watches with integrated bracelets β like the Patek Nautilus and AP Royal Oak β cannot be fitted with standard straps without modification. Always check the lug width before purchasing a replacement strap.
How do I change a watch strap?
Most straps are held in place by spring bars β small cylindrical pins that compress to fit between the watch lugs. A spring bar tool (a small forked implement) is used to compress and remove them. The process takes about two minutes once you are familiar with it. Many watch retailers and jewellers will change straps for free or a small fee.
How should I store watches with leather straps?
Store leather-strapped watches in a watch box away from direct sunlight and moisture. UV exposure fades and dries leather; moisture causes mould and deterioration. A quality watch box with a solid lid provides ideal protection. For automatic watches, a watch winder keeps the movement running while protecting the strap in a controlled environment.
When is Episode 8 of Watch World?
Episode 8 arrives on 6 August β a complete guide to vintage watch collecting: how to buy, what to look for, and the risks and rewards of the vintage market. Follow the Aevitas blog to stay updated.
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