Welcome back to Watch World — Aevitas UK's series on the art, history, and obsession of fine watchmaking. Episode 9 explored underrated brands and hidden gems. This episode celebrates the designs that everyone knows — and the extraordinary stories of how they came to be.
What Makes a Watch Design Iconic?
Iconic design is not merely popular design. Many watches have sold in large numbers without achieving iconic status; a handful of designs have transcended their category to become cultural objects — recognised by people who have never worn a watch, referenced in film and literature, and copied by competitors for decades after their introduction.
What separates the iconic from the merely successful? Three qualities appear consistently: a design that solves a genuine problem in a new way; a visual identity so distinctive that it is immediately recognisable; and a story — of the person who designed it, the context in which it was created, or the events it witnessed — that gives it meaning beyond its function.
The watches in this episode have all three.
The Rolex Submariner — The Definitive Dive Watch
The Rolex Submariner, introduced in 1953, was not the first dive watch — but it became the definitive one. Its design brief was simple: a watch that could be worn to 100 metres underwater, read in low visibility, and withstand the demands of professional diving. The solution — a rotating bezel for tracking dive time, a screw-down crown for water resistance, and a dial designed for maximum legibility — was so effective that it has remained essentially unchanged for over seventy years.
The Submariner's cultural reach extends far beyond diving. It was the watch worn by Sean Connery as James Bond in Dr. No in 1962 — a moment that introduced the watch to a global audience and established its association with adventure, sophistication, and masculine elegance. The reference 6538 worn by Connery is now one of the most sought-after vintage Rolex references in the world.
Today, the Submariner is the most recognised luxury watch in the world. Its waiting list at authorised dealers regularly exceeds several years; its secondary market premium is among the highest of any production watch. It is the benchmark against which every other sports watch is measured.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak — The Luxury Sports Watch That Changed Everything
The Royal Oak, designed by Gérald Genta and introduced in 1972, is the most influential watch design of the 20th century. Its premise was radical: a luxury sports watch in stainless steel, with an integrated bracelet, priced higher than many gold dress watches. The industry was sceptical; the public was initially confused. Within a decade, it had created an entirely new category.
Genta designed the Royal Oak in a single night, reportedly drawing inspiration from a diving helmet he had seen in a museum. The octagonal bezel with its eight exposed screws, the "tapisserie" guilloché dial, and the integrated bracelet that flows seamlessly from the case — all were conceived in that single session. The result was a watch that looked like nothing that had come before it.
The Royal Oak's influence on subsequent watch design cannot be overstated. The Patek Philippe Nautilus — also designed by Genta, also in 1976 — was a direct response to its success. The Vacheron Constantin Overseas, the IWC Ingenieur, and dozens of other integrated-bracelet sports watches owe their existence to the Royal Oak's commercial and cultural impact.
The Omega Speedmaster — The Moon Watch
The Omega Speedmaster was introduced in 1957 as a racing chronograph — a tool watch for motorsport professionals who needed to time laps and pit stops. Its connection to space began in 1962, when NASA began evaluating watches for use in the Mercury programme. After rigorous testing — including exposure to extreme temperatures, humidity, shock, vibration, and vacuum — the Speedmaster was the only watch to pass every test. It was certified for extravehicular activity in 1965.
On 20 July 1969, Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin wore Speedmasters on the surface of the moon. The reference worn — the 105.012 — became the most historically significant watch ever made. The Speedmaster Professional has been worn on every NASA moon landing since, and remains NASA-certified for spaceflight today.
The Speedmaster's design — its asymmetric case with crown and pushers protected by guards, its black dial with three white sub-dials, its hesalite crystal — has remained essentially unchanged since 1968. It is the most faithful production watch in history, and its connection to the moon gives it a cultural significance that no other watch can match.
The Cartier Tank — A Century of Elegance
The Cartier Tank was designed by Louis Cartier in 1917, inspired by the Renault FT tanks he had seen on the Western Front. Its rectangular case — with the side straps of the case forming the bracelet lugs, evoking the tracks of a tank — was a radical departure from the round pocket watch cases that dominated the era. It was presented to General John Pershing, commander of the American Expeditionary Forces, as a gift.
The Tank has been worn by virtually every significant cultural figure of the 20th century: Andy Warhol, who wore a Tank but never wound it ("I don't want to know what time it is"); Princess Diana, who wore a Tank Française; Jackie Kennedy, who wore a Tank Louis; Muhammad Ali, Yves Saint Laurent, and Truman Capote. It is the watch that appears most frequently in the history of 20th-century portraiture.
The Tank's design has spawned numerous variations — the Tank Louis, Tank Américaine, Tank Française, Tank Solo, and Tank Must — each a reinterpretation of the original rectangular form. The current Tank Must, available in steel with a lacquered dial, is one of the most accessible entry points into Cartier collecting.
The Patek Philippe Nautilus — The Most Coveted Watch in the World
The Patek Philippe Nautilus, designed by Gérald Genta and introduced in 1976, was initially a commercial failure. Its price — higher than many gold watches — and its unconventional design — a porthole-inspired case with a horizontally grooved dial and integrated bracelet — confused a market accustomed to traditional dress watches. Retailers were reluctant to stock it; collectors were uncertain what to make of it.
Fifty years later, the Nautilus is the most coveted watch in the world. The reference 5711 — discontinued by Patek Philippe in 2021 — trades on the secondary market at three to four times its retail price of approximately £26,000. The announcement of its discontinuation caused a media frenzy; the final reference, with a Tiffany Blue dial, sold at auction for CHF 6.5 million.
The Nautilus's journey from commercial failure to the most desirable watch in the world is one of the most remarkable stories in the history of luxury goods. It is a reminder that genuine design innovation is rarely understood immediately — and that the watches that endure are those that solve a problem, or create a beauty, that takes time to fully appreciate.
Storing Iconic Watches
The watches in this episode are among the most valuable and historically significant timepieces in the world. Storing them properly is not merely a matter of aesthetics — it is a matter of preserving their condition, and therefore their value.
For automatic pieces — the Submariner, Royal Oak, and Nautilus all use automatic movements — a quality watch winder keeps the movement running and prevents lubricants from settling. Our 4 Watch Winder in Carbon Fibre is ideal for a collection of four iconic automatics, with individual TPD settings for each bay. Use our TPD settings database for the correct specification for each reference.
For collections of significant value, our insurance-rated watch winder safes provide certified security alongside precision winding. A collection containing a Nautilus, Royal Oak, and Submariner in good condition could easily exceed £100,000 in value — making a Grade 1 watch winder safe or above a sensible investment.
You May Also Like
→ Multi Watch Winders — wind your entire automatic collection simultaneously.
→ Watch Winder Safes — insurance-rated security for iconic pieces.
→ TPD Settings Database — correct settings for Rolex, AP, Omega and more.
→ Watch World Episode 3 — record auctions and what makes a watch valuable.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the most iconic watch ever made?
This is genuinely contested, but the Rolex Submariner, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, and Omega Speedmaster are the three most frequently cited. The Submariner for its cultural reach and commercial dominance; the Royal Oak for its design influence; the Speedmaster for its historical significance.
Why is the Patek Philippe Nautilus so expensive?
The Nautilus commands extraordinary premiums due to a combination of factors: Patek Philippe's prestige and limited production, the Nautilus's iconic design, the discontinuation of the reference 5711, and sustained global demand that far exceeds supply. The secondary market premium reflects genuine scarcity rather than artificial restriction.
Is the Rolex Submariner worth buying?
The Submariner is one of the most versatile, durable, and historically significant watches ever made. Whether it is "worth buying" depends on your priorities — if you value design, heritage, and long-term value retention, it is an exceptional choice. If you are primarily motivated by investment returns, the secondary market premium makes the entry cost significant.
What watch did James Bond wear?
Sean Connery wore a Rolex Submariner (reference 6538) in the early Bond films. Roger Moore wore a Seiko. Timothy Dalton wore a Rolex. Pierce Brosnan and Daniel Craig wore Omega Seamasters. The Bond-Omega partnership, which began in 1995 with GoldenEye, continues today.
When is Episode 11 of Watch World?
Episode 11 arrives on 21 August — going inside a Swiss manufacture to explore how a luxury watch is made from raw materials to finished piece. Follow the Aevitas blog to stay updated.
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